Robert Parker 98
1990: In terms of the brilliant complexity and nobility of the aromatics, scorched earth, black currants, plums, charcoal, cedar, and spices, the 1990 offers an aromatic explosion that is unparalleled. It is always fascinating to taste this wine next to the 1989, which is a monumental effort, but much more backward and denser, without the aromatic complexity of the 1990. The 1990 put on weight after bottling, and is currently rich, full-bodied, opulent, even flamboyant by Haut Brion’s standards. It is an incredible expression of a noble terroir in a top vintage. While it has been fully mature for a number of years, it does not reveal any bricking at the edge, and I suspect it will stay at this level for another 10-15 years … but why wait? It is irresistible now. Release price: ($1200.00/case)
Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024
Good medium color. Fabulous aromas of spicy cherries, minerals, tobacco and smoky oak. Saline entry, then intense, spicy fruit and excellent extract. Very firm and subtle, with outstanding clarity of flavor. Lovely ripe acids and a long, subtle aftertaste. Will no doubt live in the shadows of the larger-scaled, more dramatic ’89, but this very impressive wine should age beautifully. The Graves of the vintage in 1990!